|
|
CASA QUINDEen El Monasterio de CusínSan Pablo del Lago, Imbabura, EcuadorIdeally located home for a short holiday vacation or a longer term rental/exchange... |
|---|
="">Andean Condor
MORE ACTIVITIES, DAY TRIPS AND EXCURSIONSCasa Quinde's proximity to a number of popular Ecuadorian tourist spotsmakes it particularly well suited as a base for your explorations.
|
The Northern Highlands of Ecuador The Northern Highlands is the most visited region of continental Ecuador because of its natural beauty which is combined with the charm and historical importance of so many small villages and rural areas where Andean life is still very much like it was during the time of the Incas and earlier. Landmark sites are scattered throughout the Imbabura Province; spots where the Spanish influence of Colonial Period has been preserved or faithfully restored; visiting these sites will give you a very authentic idea of those three hundred years as well. If you are interested in South American history or anthropology, this is a region that cannot be missed. It is thanks to this importance that the region is second only to the Galápagos in the attention that has been paid over the last twenty-five years to making its attractions accessible and its visitors feel welcome and comfortable. A guide book will stand you in good stead (we have found both Frommer's Ecuador, and Insight Guide's, Ecuador & Galápagos to be especially helpful - see our Links page)... we keep a descriptive booklet at Casa Quinde of activities and area sites with which we are particularly familiar. Walks & HikesShopping for Handmade GoodsRestaurantsCondor ParkTransportation in the AreaWalks & Hikes The Rinconada: One of the most popular walks (or, depending on your inclination, 'hikes') is that which follows the road to the left out of the compounds' gates, past the flower plantations and along the side of the valley up into La Rinconada toward the ancient, collapsed caldera of Cerro Cusín. On this hike you see rural life as it happens here daily... cows, goats, sheep, hogs, dogs and people - all sharing the cobblestoned (for some of the way) road. There are fields at the end of the road, and across the fields - waterfalls. For the more energetic hikers there is also a path that parallels the road but is higher up the side of the valley, and gives a great vista of the valley floor and a view out to the Laguna de San Pablo. The Campo: With a turn to the right out of the compounds' gates you can wander into the mountain hills to the East. By working your way around on the country roads you can head back into San Pablo and eventually back to Casa Quinde. You can make this walk as long or short as you wish. With the 14,820' Volcán "Tayta Imbabura" as a constant companion, it would be hard to get lost. San Pablo del Lago: The central plaza of the pueblo San Pablo del Lago is a five minute walk from Casa Quinde. The people in this village (as in all of Ecuador for that matter) are friendly and helpful. There are several tiendas where you can pick up food basics and a few good bakeries in town for bread and rolls. There is also a covered, open-air fruit and vegetable market. Sunday is market day in San Pablo but this market is primarily to provide basic necessities for the local residents and in no way compares to Otavalo's Saturday artisan market (see below). There also is a house in the village where it is claimed El Libertador, Simón Bolívar, slept... Volcanoes: For the really serious hikers, it is possible to arrange with Cusín's reception staff for a guide to take you on an all-day hike up to the crater of Volcán Imbabura and back. Alternatively, you could hike around Cuicocha which is a small crater lake on the side of Volcán Cotacachi with a circle trail that takes about 4 hours to walk; or, another all-day walking excursion around the Lagunas de Mojanda and up Fuya Fuya. All of these hikes are into somewhat remote areas (especially the Mojandas and Fuya Fuya) that are best done in a group and with a guide - for safety's sake. These hikes should only be undertaken after checking with locals who are familiar with the territory, with recent local news, condition of the back roads, etc. Without this kind of information, you could find yourself far beyond your comfort zone very quickly and unexpectedly. The Lake: Closer to home, there is a place within walking distance from Casa Quinde where one can get down to the water of Laguna de San Pablo (purportedly the largest lake in Ecuador... maybe the deepest?) at Cabañas del Lago, a restaurant/hotel with a view across the lake. Here you can play a round of miniature golf, arrange boat trips around the lake - even a "sunset cruise", or rent a kayak or a board for an afternoon of wind surfing. Located on the nearside of the lake, about a 45 minute brisk walk one-way (but level walking for the most part.) We don't think of Laguna de San Pablo as being a lake for swimming - too cold and far too polluted for us (it may be a "dead" lake - thanks to chemical run-off from commercial flower cultivation nearby)... however, we have seen para-sailers and water skiers, and Cabañas del Lago caters to a variety of water sports enthusiasts. There is also an annual competition wherein local young men swim across the lake. So, use your own judgment. Shopping in the Villages It is quite easy to combine several of the destinations shown below into a half-day/full-day trip to get a real flavor of what the Northern Highlands' villages offer in the way of bargains on quality handmade goods. Otavalo – the market in the Plaza de los Ponchos of this small bustling city is a must for seeing (and buying!) handcrafted original work of Andean artisans. Saturday is the best day (but there is a smaller market on every weekday) - Some writers of travel guides have said this is the best artisan market in all of South America. There is also a goodly amount of merchandise made especially for the "tourist trade" sold here. If you are so inclined, there is also an animal market in Otavalo very early on Saturday morning where the locals buy and sell animals. (15-20 minutes from here on the Pan American Highway ["The Pana"]) Cotacachi – a small, clean city where the main street into the town is lined with shops selling all types of leather goods at very reasonable prices – belts, saddles, jackets, purses, shoes, briefcases, etc. They also have a pretty town center with church and plaza. (approx. 35-40 min from here - off the Pana) This is about an $8.00 - $10.00 taxi ride. Peguche – a village that is known for its weavers (and its waterfall). There are a couple of shops that can be visited that have all kinds of woven goods and are happy to demonstrate their weaving techniques. The prices here are a little bit steeper than what you will pay in the Otavalo market (with bargaining), but the quality is more assured. The short walk from the parking area to the waterfall is well worth your time. (About 20 minutes on a bumpy back road from Casa Quinde.) Ilumán – a small village that specializes in hat-making (not panama hats, but the felt Indiana Jones type) and shamans (healers). There is one little workshop where you can watch them make the hats (thru some of the stages) and buy one with your own selection of hat band for about $12. You can also visit a shaman for a healing ceremony. He will charge you about $5 to $10 for a short demonstration or you can negotiate with him for a thorough treatment! (Ilumán is a little beyond Peguche – on another bumpy road which exits onto the Pana just at Pinsaquí.) Nearby Restaurants Of course, the closest restaurant is the incomparable dining room of Hacienda Cusín... candle lit dining, crackling fire, soft music in the background... a dining experience not to be missed! And lunch on the terrace here can also be quite a treat. However, on occasion one might want to look for something a bit further afield. Cabañas del Lago - as mentioned above, is within walking distance of Casa Quinde. They are especially known for their Sunday brunch. As for going here for dinner, one would probably be best served by arranging for a driver, at least for the trip home in the dark. (See also: Walks & Hikes - The Lake for more information about activities at the the Cabañas del Lago.) La Mirage – an elegant, European style restaurant/spa/hotel tucked into a corner of Cotacachi. Fun to see, visit for a massage, or to have lunch. Some have commented that at La Mirage one wouldn't necessarily even know they were in Ecuador. Their menu is relatively expensive for Ecuador (four for dinner with wine & desert is a bit over $100 - lunch should be about half of that) but the service and presentation are impeccable. (approx. 35-40 min. from Casa Quinde) Pinsaquí – another hacienda worth seeing – it’s not as old as Cusín, but its setting and the dining areas are charming. They also serve great typical Ecuadorian lunches – a favorite of ours is churrasco – lomo fino (tender steak), with a fried egg, avocado, and llapingachos (fried potato cheese cakes) - a real heart stopper! They also offer other, non-Ecuadorian, dishes as well. Prices are $8 - $12 per lunch. Frequently there are local musicians serenading while you dine! (Just a little beyond the cut-off to Cotacachi on the Pana, about 25 min. from Casa Quinde.) Puerto Lago – on the far side of the lake (from our casa) just off the Pana between Casa Quinde and Otavalo... a restaurant/hotel with a cross-lake view back toward San Pablo del Lago, good food (especially their shrimp and avocado ceviche). They offer live music some of the times - and a "sunset cruise". Dinners here are in the $10 - $15 range, plus beverages and plus the 22% tax and service.) Otavalo - the city has a number of very good restaurants - many with live musical entertainment at night. Prices are included above only to serve as guidelines. Condor Park Parque Condor – a location where you can go to observe Andean Condors (which are becoming endangered here in Ecuador) and a lot of other birds... they have a raptors demonstration twice a day. They have done an impressive job here and a visit is highly recommended. (Parque Condor is at the North end of the lake, close to Peguche – about 20 min. from here.) Transportation for those places a bit too far to walk: The private drivers we recommend and use ourselves (their numbers are programmed into Casa Quinde's cell phone) are known to be safe ones and charge about US$10.00 an hour for touring and trips within the Imbabura Province. Of course, if you have your own car, the only transportation issue is having good directions. There is an area map at Casa Quinde that you can take with you. Using public transportation... The bus stop is two short rural blocks away; there you can catch the bus to Otavalo where you can pick up buses that will connect you with all of Ecuador. Taxis are readily available at the corner of San Pablo's central parque (six short blocks away); alternatively, programmed into Casa Quinde's cell phone, are telephone numbers for one or two taxi drivers who can pick you up at el Monasterio's gate. The trip to Otavalo is US$0.25 by bus, US$5 by taxi - each direction. If using a taxi or private van, the cost for trips outside of the Imbabura Province, e.g. to Quito, should be negotiated in advance. Bus fare to Quito is about US$3; taxi or van is about US$50 to US$60. Beyond the Northern Highlands We can help you contact English-speaking driver/guides who will work with you to develop an itinerary enabling you to see all the diversity of this country, the jungles of the Oriente, the Avenue of the Volcanoes, the Costa. We can also help you contact the owners of a home on the southern side of Santa Cruz Island in the Galápagos Islands who, on occasion, arrange for short term rentals if this might be of interest to you. There is more to be seen in Ecuador than just the Northern Highlands. BUT, the Northern Highlands do make the BEST starting, mid, or ending point for your explorations in Ecuador. If you have any questions or would like further information and/or more photographs, please do not hesitate to contact us for a prompt response. |
CASA QUINDE en El Monasterio de Cusín San Pablo del Lago, Imbabura, Ecuador info@casaquinde.com Call in Ecuador: 099 602 855 From U.S.A.: 011-593-9-960-2855 or, Call in U.S.A. 415-287-0817 ©2008, casaquinde.com, info@casaquinde.com |